Once the largest city of Roman Spain, CordÑba later formed the heart of the western Islamic empire. Today, the city is a typical bustling, noisy Andalusian city, with lots of atmosphere, fascinating sites, intriguing small streets and shops and the inevitable fabulous choice of restaurants and bars.
Sightseeing
The Mosque
The Mezquita dates back to the 10th century when Cordoba reached its zenith under a new emir, Abd ar-Rahman 111 who was one of the great rulers of Islamic history. At this time Cordoba was the largest, most prosperous cities of Europe, outshining Byzantium and Baghdad in science, culture and the arts. The development of the Great Mosque paralleled these new heights of splendour.
Today the Mezquita as it is known can be visited throughout the year for 750 ptas entrance fee. The approach is via the Patio de los Naranjos, a classic Islamic ablutions courtyard which preserves both its orange trees and fountains. When the mosque was used for Moslem prayer, all nineteen naves were open to this courtyard allowing the rows of interior columns to appear like an extension of the tree with brilliant shafts of sunlight filtering through.
A first glimpse is immensely exciting. Jan Morris described it as "so near the desert in its tentlike forest of supporting pillars." The architect introduced another, horseshoe-shaped arch above the lower pillars. A second and purely aesthetic innovation was to alternate brick and stone in the arches, creating the red and white striped pattern which gives a unity and distinctive character to the whole design.
The Mihram
This traditionally had two functions in Islamic worship, first it indicated the direction of Mecca (therefore prayer) and it also amplified the words of the Imam, the prayer leader. At Cordoba it is particularly magnificent. The shell-shaped ceiling is carved from a single block of marble and the chambers on either side are decorated with exquisite Byzantine mosaics of gold.
The Cathedral
In the centre of the mosque squats a Renaissance cathedral which dates back to the early sixteenth century while, to the left is the Capilla de Villaviciosa built by Moorish craftsmen in 1371.
City Walls
The walls which used to mark the boundaries of the Jewish quarter extended virtually to the Arab walls. The latter enclose the Alcazar gardens and continue along the river bank. These stretches of wall are among the better conserved in the city's fortified enclosure, although they are from a later period. The Roman and Arab walls crumbled and, eventually, in the 15th century after the Christian conquest, several monarchs ordered their reconstruction.
The Seville Gate
The Gate of Seville is of considerable historical interest standing as a fortified tower from the primitive entry gate to the Alcazar or fortress. Alongside the gate rises the statue of the poet, Ibn Zaydun, the author of a treatise on love entitled 'The Dove's Necklace', as well as the most modern of the many 'Triunfos' and columns enclosed in honour of St Raphael, the archangel who freed the city from a plague in the 13th century.
The Roman bridge in Cordoba
The Roman bridge which, according to the Arab geographer, Al-drisi 'surpasses all other bridges in beauty and solidity' yet reflects little of its Roman roots, owing to frequent reconstruction over many decades. In the centre of one of its stone rails there rises an image of St Raphael at whose feet candles always burn and before whom many Cordobans remove their hats.
The Jewish Quarter in Cordoba
Ñrdoba's old Jewish quarter consists of a fascinating network of narrow lanes, more atmospheric and less commercialized than in Seville although souvenir shops are starting to emerge.
At the centre of the quarter is the synagogue, one of only three in Spain. A MudÈjar construction dating from 1315 the interior includes a gallery for women and plaster work with inscriptions from Hebrew psalms.
Puente Gate
At the edge of the Roman bridge formerly used to enter the city enclosure near the Mosque, rises the Gate del Puente, completed in the days of Philip II. This triumphal arch is the work of HernÀn Ruiz and takes the place of what was first a Roman gate and later a Moorish gate. Alongside stands the most ostentatious of the Triunfo erected in honour of St Raphael. It was finished by Miguel Verdiguier, a Frenchman who settled in Cordoba, in the 18th century and is responsible for the distinctive rococo style.
Tower of La Calahorra in Cordoba
The Tower of La Calahorra rises up at the far end of the Roman bridge from the city center. It was a part of the Muslim city's defensive system built to protect the Roman bridge and the city.
Molino de la Albolafia in Cordoba
The river-bed, wide enough for some garden areas and small islands inhabited by birds, was long ago used to move flour mills, of which some remains can still be seen to this day . The so called Molino de la Albolafia which had a mill wheel which has appeared on Cordoban seals and other city emblems since the 13th century, was built by the Romans. Abd al-Rahman 11 ordered a huge chain pump to be made in order to take water up to the palace gardens, but Isabella, the Catholic queen, had it taken down so as to avoid its annoying squeaking noise. What may be seen today is a reconstruction.
The Palace of Viana
This Palace, which was declared a National Monument and important Artistic Garden, has a surface of 6,500 m2, more than half of which is occupied by the garden and the rest by a building with two floors and two little entresols.
The inside of the palace is fascinating. You can still feel its homely atmosphere, revealing the sensitivity of a lady who was able to weave different elements in perfect harmony to create these special rooms. Visitors, more than 70,000 every year, are especially attracted by the elegant patios and the superb 18th century garden of this palace which has lately become a museum, thanks to the collaboration of an important institution in the town.
With its open area formed by the twelve patios and the garden, the palace is a virtual Museum of Patios - a place closely linked to the history and tradition of Cordoba. Enjoy an unforgettable visit that will take you through the rooms in waves of scents, sounds and colours.
Museums
Archeological Museum in Cordoba
Situated within the beautiful Renaissance Palace of the PaÈz family, this museum has Iberian, Roman, Visigothic, Muslim, MudÈjar and Renaissance pieces. The Roman collection is particularly fascinating.
During its original conversion, this small Renaissance mansion was revealed as the unlikely site of a genuine Roman patio. It is now one of the most imaginative and pleasant small museums in the country with an excellent local collection and a particularly outstanding inlaid tenth-century bronze stag found at the Moorish palace of Medina Azahara
Museum of Fine Arts in Cordoba
This Renaissance building occupies the Hospital de la Caridad, and houses an excellent collection of works by local artists and drawings by ValdÈs, Leal, ZurbarÀn, Murillo, Palomino, Antonio del Castillo and Juan de Peßalosa, among others, as well as sculptures by Juan de Mesa and Mateo Inurria.
Open from Tuesday until Saturday from 3 pm to 8 pm
The Diocesan Museum of Fine Arts in Cordoba
This recently created museum is located at the old Episcopal Palace, and is a beautiful building with a cloister of several storeys, a chapel and dining-room, as well as a hall dedicated to artists from Cordoba and a gallery dedicated to mediaeval art, as well as tapestries and collections of psalm books from the Cathedral.
Open for visitors from Monday to Friday (10.30v2 pm and 4-6.30 pm)
Bullfighting Museum in Cordoba
Set in the House of Bulas, this stately 16th century building currently exhibits important collections related to bullfighting.
Julio Romero de Torres Museum in Cordoba
Located in the artist's home, it shares the courtyard with the Museum of Fine Arts. The museum houses the work of this Cordoban artist who was renowned because of the popular symbolism in his paintings and the mysterious quality arising from them.
Tower of La Calahorra in Cordoba
The Tower of La Calahorra rises up at the far end of the Roman bridge from the city center. It was a part of the Muslim city's defensive system built to protect the Roman bridge and the city.
It currently houses the Insititute for Dialogue between Cultures. This fascinating museum is particularly educational with audiovisual presentations which vividly depict how life was lived in Cordoba during the 10th Century.
Parks and gardens
The Alcazar in Cordoba
The Alcazar of the Christian Kings and its delightful gardens take up one of the river banks. The Muslim Alcazar once stood where the Episcopal Palace is today v this building was reformed in the Baroque period and was recently reconditioned in order to house the Diocesan Museum. Alongside this museum, the Exhibition Palace occupied what used to be the Church of San Jacinto and the Hospital of San Sebastian, an outstanding construction opposite the Mosque featuring a portico that stands out among the Gothic jewels in Cordoba. Inside, in the Romero de Torres hall, one can admire interesting 16th century frescoes.
Despite originating from the Christian era, these gardens are typically Moorish in design with ponds, fountains and aromatic plants. They are open to the public after 5 pm. Adjacent to the gardens are the Royal Stables which extend to encompass the Gardens of the Campo Santo de los MÀrties.
Paseo de la Victoria in Cordoba
Along with the Diego de Rivas Gardens, popularly known as the 'Duck Gardens' (for obvious reasons!), and the Gardens of Vallellano, this paseo of green landscaping is the main city park and popular for promenading, especially at the weekends.
Gardens of the Merced in Cordoba
Attractive long-established public garden located in the old quarter.
Gardens of La Ribera Cordoba
Situated adjacent to the Guadalquivir riverbed, these gardens feature small islands, oleanders, aquatic birds and an old water mill.
The Botanical Gardens in Cordoba
These gardens host an Ethnobotanical Museum, the only one of its kind in Spain, dedicated to the relation between man and plants. The majority are open-air gardens with numerous trees. There is also a greenhouse, divided into several microclimates.
Patios
Cordoba is particularly well known for its colourful patios which are opened up to the public in early May and may be visited according to pre-established routes.
The patios are internal open courtyard that form part of the typical architecture of the Andalucian town house. The patio also forms part of the social life of the house being a communal area. The sleeping accommodation and the living rooms are built around the space. Cordoba takes a ºspecial pride in its patios and decorates them with flowers .
Patio Contest (5th to 15th May), in which home-owners compete for the prize awarded to the most beautifully decorated patio. The map provided by the local Tourism Office will help you find the competing courtyards.
